site: add a rudimentary dark mode

This is a very simple, very high-contrast dark mode (for now). However,
not all default ui elements seem to respect it by default — i.e.
textareas stay entirely white by default and require additional theming.

I'm not sure if this is my system stlye or firefox interfering, but for
now I've added custom css rules which at least make text areas black.
Buttons and checkboxes are still white, however.

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